Wine and Internet: Where to be, what do drink, when to spit?

While the social media put us in a new era, you can hear everywhere in French vineyards that “C’est la crise”, French wines are in perils!

Gladly, the first one seem to be able to cure the other. The social media goes perfectly with wine and comes as a medium for our palates to express themselves. After all, wine is social; it makes you talk more than usual and rarely leads to consensuses. There’s a place for each of this spirit on the web, and others to gather them: just like in an animated wine bar or a humid cellar. Let the conversation buzz!

This is happening now! World Wide Wines are building up their drinking space on the net.

Gary Vaynerchuck (@Garyvee) had just published his book on the matter when I arrived at the EWBC (European Wine Bloggers' Conference) in Lisbon. Sponsored by so wine and Internet kings, the bloggers crowd that we were couldn’t find a better place to spend the weekend.

When Doug Cook (@ablegrape) started talking about ablegrape.com, everyone stopped sipping, paused and listened. Same silence when this was Philippe Hugon (@Vinternet) talking about Wine Everybody. Philippe is a French gentleman, ironic when I realised I had to go all the way to Lisbon to meet him! And then Addega, a very reach tool combining the search engine capacity and the social intelligence you need to be all set online while sipping the right glass of wine.

"Ryan Opaz - one of the main EWBC organiser"

I was already on OpenWine Consortium - the Facebook of winos - and thought I had done all what I could. Not- After this time in Lisbon, the spectre of possibilities became infinite. AND… I had only freshly returned from the EWBC when Findawine.com released at a beautiful tasting with Franck Thomas in Paris where 5 wines where paired with 5 French cheeses. The English name shows all the ambition of this new powerful search engine for wine, French made, International to be.

THE FRENCH MASTERS

Philippe Hugon for Vinternet (Wine Everybody)

• Wine Everybody is a project led by Vinternet; a web agency specialized in the wine business in France since 1995. This is where you’ll find famous names but also a whole new generation of wine bloggers, twitters and members of social networks passionate and fascinating. It is incredibly useful to help you track all what is said on wine and the Internet!

• Findawine.com is the baby of the wine & Internet industry. This new search engine is probably the most complete and powerful tool for wine lovers. Just like Addega, it combines an impressive search capacity (1 496 211 wines) to the ability to interact with others users on their wine choices. More complete than any other tool, it also allows you to compare prices, millesimes, keep track of your cellar and match your favourite dishes with your best wines.

Started up by Damien Bonnabel and Julien Pichoff, it encompasses all Franck Thomas ' knowledge. Europe and France best sommelier in 2000, he also worked in many of the Michelin stars restaurants. So FINDAWINE is helping you to reach the pleasure that goes with drinking wine … ever though you could have Franck Thomas in a computer?

MORE EXPLAINED:

"When you've seen this shirt, you understand Rob McIntosh" A powerful marketing tool!

• First, if you are into wine, the first step is to make friends on Openwine consortium. It features the world's premier online wine business network, on a mission to improve the world of wine. The Facebook of wine thanks to geniuses like Rob McIntosh (@thirstforwine) and Ryan Opaz (@Caravino_Ryan)!

• Ablegrape.com is a wine search engine — not for comparison-shopping, but for learning and research. It aims to be the world's most comprehensive, up-to-date, and authoritative source for online wine information.

• Adegga is made to help you discover wine with the complexity out. You can relay on other people choices and organise your wine selection thanks to your personal list easily manageable. As in any social network, you can add friends that match your interests. Complete and easy to use!

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Vicky Wine Tasting 2 : Wine & Baguette - Everyone danced @ Carré Parisien

• November the 5th, Right after the European Wine blogger Conference, another Vicky Wine Tasting was on the move! It was certainly the first of a long serie @ Carré Parisien.

Carré Parisien is a fun and chic lounge in the 15th district of Paris where you can easily organise events. Olivier and Idre are nice and welcoming: nothing better for a relaxing tasting! Still warming up for the Beaujolais Nouveau dramatic release next Thursday, I’ve selected 3 beaujolais'crus:

• The most prestigious – Moulin à Vent 2007 Domaine Monrozier – Château des Moriers.
• Vicky’s favorite – Fleurie 2006 - Domaine Monrozier – Château des Moriers.
• The Parisian King – Brouilly 2008 – Domaine du Chapître.
• And the great Château de Lavernette for the Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais Village Blanc & Cremant de Bourgogne.

This time, the cremant was opening the night and had a tremendous success together with the dearest Moulin-à-Vent. The Beaujolais region truly has a wine for every palate and conversations were animated until the dance floor in the cellar underneath. The night ended as usual with the few resistants, always ready to finish up a nice bottle… I was also lucky enough to come back home with a flight ticket to NYC, a delayed birthday present that came just on time! Yes, I have the most amazing, cool and caring friends! BUT, Before Miss Vicky Wine in NYC Get to meet Miss Vicky Wine in London the 26th of November with Borough Wines and a magic Beaujolais selection. WHERE : LEILA’s SHOP 17 Calvert Avenue E2 7JP

Price: 10 pounds

And the 3rd of December Miss VickyWine @ Carré Parisien with “Buble & Toast” for a stunning sparkling wines selection! Where:

1 rue du général Beuret, 75015, Paris.

A bientot!

Miss Vicky Wine

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Vicky-Sherry & other Sweeties: EWBC tasting with Vinoble

European Wine Blogger Conference 2009: What a surprise when I realised that sweet wines got my heart!

Even though I was born in the vines, I realise every day how much I have to learn. I always assumed I hated sweet wines, and I don’t. Amongst the incredibly rich human experience I had during those 3 days, I have first decided this crush deserved to be the centre of my attention to introduce you to this incredible adventure that is the EWBC.

Lisbon, October 29th – I was almost moaning when they announced the Vinoble tasting. 8 sweet wines, natural sweet wines and fortified wines to sip before dinner, what an assignment! Well… My lips reached the glass, and the Sherry got me:

Perez Barquero - Gran Barquero –Amontillado: A clear amber colour, a stunning nuts bouquet and the longest dry finish my palate has ever experimented. A bomb, wonderful !

Justino's Colheita 1995 DOC Madeira: What a beautifully surprising nose and palate. I’ve found some orange blossom water on the nose and the palate, a place and time where I had never expected it – this bouquet is certainly imprinted on my brain forever !

Bacalh'o' Moscatel Roxo DOC Setu'bal (100% Moscatel Roxo) 1999. Very, fresh and delicate nose, a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Closing my eyes, I see myself running in a green field filled in with savage flowers. Have I ever said I disliked Moscatel… can’t remember anymore…

For the Porto, even thought I’ve tried the Niepoort’s 1983 and a few Quevedo, my palate was too tired for the « coup de cœur » is not for today… Oscar and Daniel will certainly have more time in the following years to convince me with their selection!

"Oscar"

If you have time and want to taste great sweet wines, run to the city of Jerez in Andalucia for Vinoble: the International Exhibition of Noble Wines (30th of May, 2nd of June 2010).

What’s even better is that Portugese deserts go perfectly well with thèse wines. I am not fond of deserts usually, no one would have believed me in Lisbon!

Pastel de Nata, Almond Cake and of course Dom Rodrigo, certainly my favorite! A melange of egg yolk and almond paste that is a very rich spoon of heaven!

Thanks to the bloggers' pool for the pictures!

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Vicky's Crush: The wine Dreamers of Priorat

"Eben Sadie and Dominik Huber"

Roissy Charles de Gaulle, Terminal 2. Here, at the gate of any destination, in between two worlds, you feel what freedom could be. The sun is already giving us a good day here in Paris but in a few hours I’ll be in Lisbon on the Ocean side, with summery temperature, excellent wines and food and a bench of wine lovers all here to share the week end together. The 2009 European Wine Bloggers Conference is about to start and it seems like everyone is already very excited.

Still, while I am waiting for this moment, something keeps turning around in my head. This week Monday, I’ve been invited at the last minute to the prestigious « Cave Legrand » for a tasting. Located in one of the most beautiful cellar of Paris, it was hosting this day a winemaker from Priorat, a wine region in Spain, Catalonia .

I was late and the place was closing, I felt quite embarrassed to try the wines but finally didn’t resist. No regrets at all, they had the taste of paradise: smooth, silky on the palate, fruity and profund - A fabulous jewel! Then I looked up to the winemaker, Dominik Huber, and realised he was young, not even Spanish, passionate and only starting what will probably be the biggest adventure of his life. Fascinating!

Dominik is German, and felt in love with Priorat region when he first came to visit. He then quit his job as a cook in Munich to start making wine. From what I’ve heard, the region is very dry, very rural and looks like it didn’t move for centuries.

Indeed, Priorat was once dead, hit by the war and the philoxera. Since 1988 a group of local and international winemakers came to rediscover the potential of these lands, now experiencing a new age. There are no wine makers here but wine dreamers who live in villages frozen by time and stick to traditional wine making methods. Rocky Road, dryness, you certainly could feel in the middle of the desert, but this seem to not alter Dominik or any of the wine makers ambitions. They take everything from the soil because they believe that nothing can be created, all the potential is already in the fruits. These are tiny and very concentrate grapes from 50 to 100 years vines. To preserve their quality, the best and most gentle techniques should be used.

My crush from the “Terroir Al Limit” was the Arbossar from Dominik Huber, made of Carignan grapes, it has the name of the slope where the grapes grow and is elegant, silky and deep.

Dominik and Eben Sadie, his partner started with little means, they make wine in a warehouse with nothing but the necessary. Still, they have the most important, a professional kitchen and everything needed to give you the best of Priorat unknown region.

If you ever get the chance, go to Priorat and meet the survivals! I know I will.

More details and pictures with the wine dreamers

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Opération Beaujolais: Vicky Wine Tasting, la première!

It’s been almost 6 months now and I am still there, growing up slowly! Drinking wine, meeting wine drinkers, hanging out with producers and professionals has been very rewarding. After receiving all this tasting invitations and encouragements, I had to do something to thank all this amazing crowd. My new mission: to initiate the non wine drinkers to the best elixir on Earth and help the other enjoy their drink in the best conditions. So, It was about time for the birth of Miss Vicky Wine Tasting: Vicky Wine in live with her best selection of wines and drinkers. The baptism of Miss Vicky wine and the première of Vicky Wine tasting were held in a beautiful cellar of the 9° district of Paris on the 22nd of October. Thanks to all for your support and your bubbly mood! Special thanks to Jeanne (AKA Jane Wine), Vincent, Anne-Laure, Clémence, Guillaume, my dad for his wines and my sister Laure. As an addict to Beaujolais wines, the first selection was happily made with 14th of them represented. Over 60 young people came after a long working day and left with a smile… What could ever make Vicky Wine happier? And? Another tasting is on the road: Wine and Baguette @ Le Carré Parisien the 5th of November. As Beaujolais often gives you the boogie boogie and can make you a slightly bit noisy, I’ve anticipated with a dance floor on the lower ground - Come and move your body!

A few lines on Opération Beaujolais's selection:

Beaujolais represents 12 appelations: 10 crus (saint amour, julienas, moulin-à-vent, chenas, fleurie, morgon, brouilly, cote de brouilly, chiroubles and reigné), a Beaujolais Village as well as a Beaujolais made out of Gamay grapes. You also have a Beaujolais Blanc and a Crémant de Bourgogne from Chardonnay: rare and unique!

My family makes the two most prestigious appelation of the region : Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie.

The Château des Moriers (Domaine Monrozier) in in my family since 1850 and makes elegant, structured and fresh wines. Fleurie is said to be the most feminine, our 200§ is floral and elegant, it is a soft delight for the palate. The Moulin à Vent is the King of Beaujolais with more tannin and spices, at « Château des Moriers », the 2007 and 2006 were aged in new oaked barrels (400 litres) which is quite unique for Beaujolais wine, it reinforces its structure and texture. For sure, it has also been the King of Vicky Wine Tasting for most of the candidates !

I am also a fan of « Les Etoiles en Beaujolais » (Beaujolais stars), a group of 12 women winemakers that each represent an appellation. Independent, they work in the traditions of the region: hand picked harvest, grapes kept on their skins and fermented in tanks, quality rather than quantity. I have the chance to know most of the viticulturist and can waranty the wine quality eyes closed !

From les Etoiles, my crush is definitely the Saint Amour: with such a name, this elixir will not disappoint you! Domaine Lassagne is born in 1998, their wine (2008) is tender and seducting and will certainly captivate your palate!

From les Etoiles you’ll also love the Château de Lavernette from the franco-dutch couple Anke and Bertrand de Boissieu. Their son Xavier married Kerrie, an American woman that worked in some of the most famous vineyard of California, New Zealand and Argentina. A domaine that is in biodynamic conversion and works with passion and rigour. The Beaujolais Village 2007 is full of fruit and charmer just like a berlingot. The Beaujolais Blanc 2007 is round and has a rare acidity: refreshing and delicious! You’ll also be well surprised by the Crémant de Bourgogne, with a bouquet of brioche, it is also inviting by its the rich texture.

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"American Love" rue de L’Arbre Sec

You are in Paris, you are American and tired of the Parisian anti-everything spirit ? You also love wine, amazing food and the arts? Then welcome to rue de l’Arbre Sec !

Rue de l’Arbre Sec is a nest for any American who wants to feel loved, or any American lover seeking to hang around the finest of them all.

You feel like a French wine education is what you are missing, but you can barely pronounce the word « vin »? Number 52 is where you stop. Olivier Magny and The O Château team will greet you warmly in their beautiful cellar with a wine tasting in English - s'il vous plaît! Who said the French couldn’t speak the language of Shakespeare? The quick introductory wine tasting would be best if you are a real beginner and want to learn the basics(Wine, 2, 3 wine tasting – One hour présentation – 3 wines) but you’ll also find many other way to learn.

Until November 8, the artist Rolf Saint Agnès is also exhibiting at O Château. I had the chance to meet him at the opening a few weeks ago. And as you can imagine… no one is coming to O Château for no reason. And so didn’t Rolf. Rolf is part of those American lovers that once left France to pursue their dream. New York gave birth to his art, a city that was his for ten years but that he then left for the quietness of a wooden house in the middle of a Californian forest. That also is where lay Rolf originality, in a paradox between a man that felt in love with the New York City Buzz and who also find his thoughts while going back to nature, in the silence of the trees. His painting marry perfectly wine and poetry, with tricky plays on words in both French and English that go well with the metaphorical images he draws. His works are adjust to the place, as if it was where they were meant to be. In a few canvas, with a medium made of wine and oil, Rolf puts Paris in a bottle of wine. come check it out on Tuesday when it is open to the public, and enjoy a glass of his favorite drink!

"Into the Wine" - Canvas and Poem

What was not my surprise when on my way to O Chateau I bumped into another of my heros, Daniel Rose: The American in Paris. Could sounds random but not so much when you know that a bit further on the street is the soon to be open, famous Daniel's gourmet store- wine bar and cellar. A few meters away from there will also be his new sumptuous restaurant. If you still don’t know who this man is, shame! Check this post: Daniel Rose Parisian Hero @ Spring. And if you do, well ... Meet you there!

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Montmartre Harvest Festival 2009

Montmartre lives in the past. It is a kingdom for artists, Parisian lovers, and grape pickers. A San Franciscan told me « when you live in Montmartre, you don’t need to go anywhere else, you have all you need ». No wonder I am not in San Francisco,(yet).

"Montmartre"

In Montmartre as you have vines, you also have harvest and the parties that go along with it. Last week on the hill, La Fête des Vendanges was an opportunity to celebrate the artists of the neighbourhood and their soil: French songs, wine, cabarets, traditional food, customs and smile. For five days each year, music can be heard everywhere, walking around the hill is a pleasure for all senses! Everyone is involved and bonded together. Solidarity is the theme and wines flows in glasses.

Don’t tell me that Parisians are stressed and lack stars in the eyes. At Montmartre village, everyone pauses for the weekend and loafs around. Dreams are in the air!

This year was in honour of the mythical theatre the “3 Baudets” created by Jacques Canneti – temple of French songs and heart of Montmartre cultural soul. The emblematic singer Charles Aznavour was the ambassador, chosen because of his repertoire that all French people know. Each year Montmartre also has a Queen, represented by an typical Montmartre young woman. This year it was Emma Ledoyen- daughter of Zelia – dream dress designer on the hill, and of Laurent Ledoyen – comedian and theatre director. She is a student in graphic design and drawing, following in her way her parents artistic destiny.

Together with Paris and Montmartre Mayors, Charles Azenavour and the Queen lead the traditional parade in the tiny charming streets of the hill, packed with the kingdom of numerous delegations, brotherhoods and associations.. Each of them was going with a different French song, followed by the cheering crowd and a flock of children awestruck by the flurry of things visible from their Dad’s shoulders or just running around. You could also attend concerts, dance at the Elysée Montmartre ball, check out the human pyramids in front of the Sacré Coeur and watch certainly the most beautiful fireworks I have ever seen.

"Fireworks at the Sacré Coeur"

Besides the wine and food discovery walks, the Fête des Vendanges is also an occasion for Montmartrois to introduce their own vineyards. In Montmartre there are 3: the Clos Montmartre, the oldest one was planted by the Free Commune and the Republique of Montmartre in 1930 to obstruct any building construction. It represents 3250 trees and 500 litres of wines whom sale’s profit goes charity. There is also “Les Jardins du ruisseau” vineyard and the newly planted vines of the “Bretonneau hospital” that I had the chance to visit: 120 Malbec vines giving birth to 70 litres of wine in average, the 100 bottles made of it are not for sale but only for the hospital use. Harvested on the 16 of September it is another hidden square of paradise!

"Le Clos Montmartre"

On the last festival day, Sunday, in front of the “Je T’aime” wall, is the famous Non-Wedding Celebration in an homage to George Brassens. « I have the honour to not ask your hand…Let’s not put our names at the bottom end of a parchment » says Daniel Vaillant, mayor of the district. This is Montmartre’s new form of union for those that want to be engaged to the eternal followed by the Non-Married ball at the Abbesses famous place. Improbable encounters, coup de foudre, valse musette and folklorique dance… Can you think of a better finale for a festival?

"Mur des Je t'aime"

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Save the Wines of France! A good Reason to Stand Nude in a Vineyard

Last Saturday Spencer Tunick and Greenpeace worked together on an art installation to raise awarness on the climate change.

Art and awarness have always been going well together and are usually great sources of inspiration. This time the Vineyards of France were the focus, and not because of their beauty. Unlucky enough to suffer the climate change troubling effect as well as the economic crisis and the sulkiness of the world wide young drinkers, they have been lucky enough to host a crowd of nude wine lovers invaders.

Spencer Tunick - Nude in a Burgundy Vineyard near Macon - Central Eastern France

Well, as noble as the climate change cause sounds, I am not going to dissert on this matter and will leave the climate pro on their duty.The climate's whims have many other effects whom measurement have been highly contested. Some vineyards have already registered high climate changes hundreds years ago and the capacity of human to have an impact on this matter is yet to be proved.

Concerned about conserving the French wine cultural heritage, I am though. And finally putting nudes in the vines is probably where they fit the best. I have seen many dirty erotic calendars with young lady in the grapes, in the vines, on the tractor and in any places immaginable. Vulgarity doesn't fit with wine and those were very saddening.

Thanks to Emma for this beautiful picture

Grapes is a very sensual fruit and using the vocabulary of my friend Emma, harvesting grapes by hand is not only blood sweat tears deep tissue bruising lacerations delirium and other wordly pleasures, it is also very sensual and puts you in a love and solidarity mood. Alienated to your line you have the feeling of freedom and can carry out your thoughts. Under the climate tantrum or the sun heat, it is one team, one harvest, one wine.

And watching all those nudes in the vines just made it clear.

Merci Spencer!

More on Spencer Tunick + Burgundy Vineyard Pictures + ideas on climate change

The path to Freedom (by Emma)

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The Wonderful Adventure of TerraVin (NZ)

I could talk about California for long but at the Fouquet’s and everywhere else this week (Crus, Grain Noble) all my attention has been focused on the winemaker of TerraVin, an original persona that has no more than 4 hectares in the Marlborough region of New Zealand, giving birth to some sensational wines.

Photo: Mike Eaton (right) @ Crus - Paris (Romik, Left), One of the rare place where you can find TerraVin in France

Here is his story.

Mike Eaton is one of those dreamers that made their dreams come true. The creator of Terravin once lived in a garage, planted his pinot noir and changed it in wine. Now he lives in a beautiful house and makes fantastic wines from 7 different varieties, all in Marlborough, Omaka Valley , New Zealand.

In 1981, Mike was working as a general laborer for wine in NZ. After nine years, like many wine-dreamer, he reached France, the legendary wine country, to learn. So he did in Burgundy, Pouilly sur Loire and the Jura. This is where Mike observed, memorized and built up the experience that today makes him so special. “As good as you can work in the winery, nothing will replace a good terroir and the right treatment of the vine” says Mike, “it is important to understand nature and try using less chemical to reach the right balance”. This philosophy, his field experience, together with an adventurer spirit, are Mike’s secrets.

After having tried his elixirs, one can only support his enterprise. His Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are great successes. I personally recommend the TerraVin Sauvignon Blanc 2008, with a very strong herbaceous nose, it makes you pose and feel the unusual. I particularly like the energy it releases through what Emmanuel Delmas called the tension, or “sharp final” given by a citrus and crunchy fruits finish.

In 1998, Jo and Mike sold finally sold their land and settled in the Omaka Valley, on a hill renamed TerraVin (Earth of Wine), a north facing slope wonderful for its soil and climate – cool in the evening and hot during the days. It is where Mike and his family went on writing their story with Pinot Noir. They also source other grapes from different vineyards on which Mike keeps an eye. All of his choices are daring for others but right for him. He, for instance, planted some varieties in soils in which they were not usually grown, resulting in the most original and happily surprising wines, just like him.

My crush is definitely the TerraVin, Hillside Reserve, Pinot Noir 2006- this is also his favorite. Burgundy, is Mike’s adoptive land and probably why he is so good at it. Grown on the best soil Mike and Jo have for Pinot Noir, Hillside 2006 is the most elegant year, still full of punch and fruits. Juicy and meaty, it is very promising as Le Sommelier already said.

Not to mention, his rare Grain Noble, that was a premiere and hopefully not a “dernière” for this drops of gold that surprised a whole French assembly of connoisseurs.

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Finally Drinking Californian Wines

I am now in Beaujolais, recovering from a week in Paris where I have tasted some of the most beautiful wines from around the world. Quite surprising though, as I tend to think that it is incredibly hard to drink foreign wines in France. London and New York are clearly more open on the matter: they don’t face the problem of French wine makers’ and wine drinkers’ protectionism. Can’t blame them for such a chauvinism Though -when you see that French are drinking less and less wine while foreigners drink more.

Even though I am French and cherish my French wine the most, I believe it is very interesting to see what is done in other countries and can hardly restrain my gourmand self. After all, if the French have been the first source of inspiration abroad, there is no reason why the trend can’t reverse itself enough for us to enjoy the fruit of what was originally ‘our’ labor. There are a lot of great wines and ideas around the globe. Marketing wise, Californian are my favorite, I am captivated by the way these vineyards create their story and make us part of their dream.

Last week, the Fouquet's hosted the salon des Vins du Monde (an event for wine professionals to promote world wide wines). When seeing all those country names on so many bottles, the choice was tough and the time too short. Ukrain, Israël, Italy, Germany, South Africa, Libanon and I can't count how many others were present. Following my American Dream, I've decided to focus on California. I've chased them all and couldn't believe all the label that were presented. After having my first Robert Mondavi, Shafer or Ridge, I had to pause and admit the evidence, not all were seducing. Even though you can fall in love with a country, you must take in account its diversity and some of those wine are seriously too oaky. Dreadful to drink that young!

My crush of the day, a Californian Jewel - Chappellet Signature, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 : Deliciously big, hot and smooth.

Photo: "In the world of Winegrowing, Napa Valley is second to None" - Chappellet (Napa Valley Vinters)

But also very promising:

from Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: Full - bodied, currant fruits, toasty oak, elegant and sensual balance.

from Shafer Vineyards - Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 2006. Compact with a long and refreshing finish and beautifully balanced.

from Robert Mondavi - Chardonnay 2007 (unoaked) - Very refreshing and feminine, soft and creamy on the palate.

More soon, I am sure ;).

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Dargaud & Jaegle – Fairy Tale of a Cooperage

Special thanks to the charismatic Jean-Marcel Jaegle, CEO of Dargaud & Jaegle.

Situated in the Beaujolais region of France, next to the famous Moulin à Vent, Dargaud & Jaegle is one of the 10 most famous places to make casks in France.

There are many cooperages in the country but only one with a story out of a fairy tale book. First named after Marcel Dargaud in 1921, the small cooperage destiny was changed by the arrival of a young boy from the Jaegle family.

(Picture: Wood yard where the wood is drying)

(picture: Burgundy tradition casks)

It all started during WWI when Jean-Marcel Jaegle’s grandfather, a bread maker in Colmar, left the Alsace region to escape the Germans. Hurt in the battle, he could no longer defend his country. So, the village of Juliénas, another of the Beaujolais great wine areas, requisitioned his talent as bread maker. This is where he met the beautiful woman who soon became dear to his heart. Unfortunately, they died young, leaving their young son, Jean-Marcel’s father orphaned. Mr and Ms Dargaud, close friends of the Jaegles and godfather of the young boy, soon became his adoptive parents and let him work in their cooperage.

Years later, in 1968, the Dargauds decided to rename the Dargaud cooperage Dargaud & Jaegle, promising a long succession of both families. Jean-Marcel attended a wood school in the Jura to be able to work in the cooperage. Today, his wife and two children, are working with him. Why? Because, as Jean-Marcel simply states, “un tonneau c’est formidable” (a barrel is formidable!).

And why again? With all the benefits of an egg or a nut shape, this is a very solid and flexible container. Moreover, the specific shape allows the sediments to lie together at the bottom while also making it easy to fill in completely at the top, in order to avoid the wine oxidation.

Dargaud & Jaegle is situated at the limit between Macônnais and Beaujolais but makes cooperage for wines produced on both hemispheres (about 30% in the US, 30% in Europe and 30% in the Southern hemisphere). This leads to different shapes and volumes of barrels dictated by each region’s culture.

(picture: delicate moment where the casks are boiled for 20 minutes and then warmed up with fire.)

When talking about the barrel’s possible shapes, Jean-Marcel has very particular explanations, and tells them with the most mischievous look. In France lays an eternal debate between Burgundy barrels – la pièce, and Bordelais Barrels – la barrique. As with punts under bottles, the story for the shapes of la pièce and la barrique are not entirely believable. However, wine makers and wine lovers have churned out the most original explanations, two of which I particularly like:

• The barrique shape is from the amphora, used in the Mediterranean region while the Burgund one is more from the German Celtics casks, or beer pint. Therefore, regional history lead to different shapes

• The different shape springs from the fact that people from the Bordeaux region are more lazy than the Burgunds, so they tend to prefer barrels with softer curves that are much easier to produce. No offence intended ;).

Picture: Gilles Monrozier (Wine Maker, Domaine Monrozier) and Jean-Marcel Jaegle.

Dargaud & Jaegle cooperage makes 28000 casks/year. That is a 100 casks a day and about 20 people to produce a cask in about 1h30. The cooperage is a happy working place, modernizing more and more every year.

If the management is of certain quality, that quality is also in the woods, selected carefully in the most beautiful forests from the Center – East and North of France. The best known is the forest of Troncet, which gives birth to the most prestigious barrels. Today there is even a prestigious cask called "Marcel Cadet' in remembrance of Jean-Marcel story. Cadet means "the younger child" as when Marcel Jeagle arrived at the Dargaud he was only 13.

Dargaud & Jaegle, like every cooperage, has their own secrets, for instance on the way to heat the cask to improve the aromatic richness without altering its character (more information on http://www.dargaud-jaegle.com/). An opportunity to visit a cooperage is worth seizing, It is very impressive and entertaining.

(Picture: heating of casks)

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It is 6 o’clock in the morning when the alarm rings, 25 grape-pickers are still snoring in the dorms dreaming of their vendanges ‘baptism of fire’. I am already thinking of how many jars of coffee I will have to be pouring before 7. This is when the young crowd reaches the dining room, half awake and still not fully comprehending what is waiting for them in the fields.

We are at Domaine Monrozier – Château des Moriers in the Beaujolais region of France, a family vineyard owned since 1850. The domaine makes Fleurie and Moulin à Vent, red wines and precious juice from the Gamay grapes – the 2 most famous Crus in the region. From the domaine’s garden you have a stunning and I’d say a perfect view of the actual Moulin à Vent, a windmill standing proudly in the sun rise and shining at night; further away and even prouder is the Mont Blanc whom shadow breaks in the early morning ruby red sky. In this fairy tale landscape starts a long week of picking, but also of discovery, laughter and social bonding. We are very lucky, our grapes are of an amazing quality, the weather is always with us and after a few trees, the pickers are already falling in love with the fruit.

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Daniel Rose – Blind Food and Wine Pairing @ Spring

Daniel Rose sounds French – Old Fashioned French – but it is the name of an American that is revolutionizing the French Cuisine at Spring since 2006 – a Modern Times’ Hero. Who could have thought that a young man from Chicago would have ever been capable of such an accomplishment? Not even Parisian!

I have spent half of my summer in Paris, rediscovering the city’s romantic sights, ambient wines and how beautiful people live. Next door from where I live was ‘Spring’, a tiny restaurant one could pass in front of every day without noticing. As soon as the name has buzzed into your ears it could take you up to 2 months before entering Daniel’s small world – Yes, the guy is Famous! he is also charming, funny and not pretentious for a penny. When eleven years ago, innocent and single, he came to study philosophy in Paris, he was the last one thinking he would end up cooking. Today Dan is closing Spring to relocate in the 1st district of Paris – Dan’s world is becoming bigger every day. Incroyable! As Parisians would say.

A good friend was coming to visit for the week-end and I had to honor him with the best and the coolest. So the day before I walked down to the restaurant, feeling lucky. Daniel inside checked his Mac computer and after 10 seconds hesitation kindly gave me his last remaining seats for Spring’s closing night. I didn’t complain, turned my back slowly and cracked a huge smile. Gosh I was lucky!

At Spring, tables are a little high, “or the chairs are a little low” as Daniel would say. To paint the picture, you are sitting on a table with eight others, the room is lit by candles and you watch the chef hard at work through the open kitchen. This for me is charm personified!

The concept is original and simple with a 4 dishes surprise menu. Everyone eats the same thing at the same time, which has the power to bond people as well as excite your senses. Your taste buds suddenly awake, ready to taste any special sent that they can possibly smell: sole, lemon and tomato soup, roasted eggplants, lobster and poached veal…

This is blind food and wine pairing, for Daniel there is no strict rules to food and wine matching. His guests should drink what pleases their palate and because “Les goût et les couleurs ne se ressemblent pas*”, the rule is no rules. The atmosphere was so warm and convivial, that on our table we all shared wines. On arrival you are given the "Spring liquids list," liquid probably because according to Mr Rose, a wine is something to be drunk, never to be eaten unlike “Barossa Shiraz”. Dan likes happy wines, those that you can have more than a glass of without feeling them in your stomach or over your palate. Happy wines are balanced, fruity and easy drinking, easy drinking sounds dull for many but to me it is indeed one of the best qualities a wine can ever have (and for any doubts, here is the article to read).

One of Dan’s favorite “Liquid wine” comes from the Beaujolais region of France. The wines from Beaujolais are light, fruity, friendly happy wines. In this case it was a Moulin à Vent (Château de la Vénerie, 2007) and for my quarter century of experience , proved to be the perfect wine for the evening. To be frank, this revelation went off like a bombshell, a wine so simple could be so correct. Fresh red fruits, perfectly balanced and Al Dente, like my favorite food critique – Daniel Young – would say. How to make Vicky Wine happier? Well I have also tried a light Pinot Noir from Alsace, so light in color that you could think of a rosé but delicate in taste and fresh on the palate. Perfect to get a new start in between each dish.

Like at any traditional goodbye party, Champagne’s corks popped up into the quiet street, one first, then two… three…four? Soft bubbles, hazelnuts and a fresh finish. Happy night, happy people, happy Daniel and we wish we would all come back! But hey, this was the last! Hopefully the small Spring will reopen this fall in an even more authentic and down to earth setting, easier cooking and a set menu for tired city workers in need of fun and simplicity: “I want everyone to be dancing on the table”, “Back to Neanderthal” said Dan – hum, “façon de parler**” as we say. Dan is also famous at Spring for his Saturday Lobster sandwich & Fries in Duck fat so who knows what will come next in the small cuisine!

In January 2010 will also be the Opening of the new restaurant, wine bar and cellar, rue Bailleul. Another reason to celebrate – not a real ending but a new beginning! If you had never heard about Daniel Rose before this is only the start, get ready for more adventures and remember where to book before reaching Paris.

*“Tastes and colors are different for everyone”

** "Expression not to be taken literally”

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Corsica's beauty is revealed in its wines

The “Ile de Beauté” (“Beautiful Island”) multiple differences of soils and grapes make wines for every palate but also for every moment: Muscat for the aperitif, red with the famous wild boar and white with goat cheese, mostly to be drunk young and fresh. This is also the island I have spent many of my summer holidays as a kid. In the middle of mountains and grapes, I was able to experiment the Corsican culture and unique food tradition but haven't been allowed to sip a single drop of their wonderful wines. Luckily, there are a few Corsicans in Paris that like to share their passion for wine, so I can take revenge on my very frustrating childhood.

The wonderful and diverse nature makes the particularity of Corsica’s wines. Full of sun, west Corsica is the most enlighten part of France. Indeed, the island is a natural paradise with mountains going until 2000 meters, which dive into the sea bordering the coasts. These unique geographical conditions allow the heat to cool down and create multiple tempered climates perfect for the traditional 30 grapes’ varieties planted on Corsica’s different soils.

Corsican wines are not born yesterday – 2500 years ago, the Greek already voted the island as the most beautiful of the Mediterranean Sea, the Romans continued to grow vines and so did all the diverse inhabitants until today. In the 60s, Algerian colonials moved to Corsica and broke the tradition by planting new vines that gave more fruits that the previous ones in order to produce their daily table wine. This was the high pick of the Corsican viticulture in terms of quantity– more than 32 000 hectares (86 720 acres) – but unfortunately not quality. The low popularity of table wine in the 70s lead the island to bankruptcy.

Fortunately, wine makers changed mentality, they understood the importance of traditions and replanted the specific varieties of grapes that was first planted and naturally grown in the region. Corsica is now the third producing island in the Mediterranean sea behind Sardinia and Sicily The production is now reduced to not much more than 7000 hectares, , 9 millions US Gallons with an emphasis on quality that is drastically changing the bad reputation of their wines. The “vin de pays” is today at its best with very advantageous prices and represent three quarters of the production.

Even though Corsican saying tells "Omu di vinu un vale un quatrinu" (The man that drink doesn’t worth anything), today the quality freshness and fruitiness of Corsican wines is the trade mark of the “Ile de Beauté”. It is well known in the metropolitan France that Corsicans are proud of their culture as a general way of being, they are also especially proud of their grapes diversity, originality, and rarity. For a reason: their unique wines keep traditions up, they are on the best restaurants’ tables and play hard to get as the small quantity and transport difficulties don’t allow much exportation. As a result, Corsican wines are very little known around the globe. Even when producers put an emphasis on exportation, they don’t sale to everyone and carefully chose their clients. This is the example of Domaine Sant’Armettu wine maker, that has very diverse wines suited for all palates but who prefers to know the restaurateur before selling the wine from his 25 hectares.

Grape varieties are perfectly suited to the climate but also very little known, not to reassure the clients and make it easier to commercialize. Transmitted from a generation to the other, 3 grape varieties are mainly used:

Nielucciu: the Sangiovese from Italy (Tuscany). Dark red wines with much tannin. Makes wines that you can keep for a long time mostly found in Patrimonio where it is monocepage, also in other appellation where it is mixed with sciacarellu.

Sciacarellu: meaning “crunchy” is also a table grape– it gives very delicate wine, lightly colored and very fruity. You will also find spices and flowers. Used for red and rosé it is found in Ajaccio and Sartène.

Vermentinu (Malvoisie) is the main white grape of the island also found in Spain and Portugal where the climate is also dry and warm. Although white wine is made in less quantity in the island, wines made of Vermantinu are becoming increasingly popular. The quality of the wine, will depend upon the soil that can vary from very flowery and mineral flavors in Patrimonio to citrus and eucalyptus on the Balagne.

This Three main variety are found in 9 different appellations with the best wines on the coast: local AOC:

• Ajaccio – Vines 500 high and above – the highest wine region in France
• Patrimonio – Patrimonio is the most famous appellation for Corsican wines.

regional AOC:

• Vin de Corse

Vin doux naturel:

• Muscat du Cap-Corse: also recognized for its uniqueness; sweet to dry depending on the soil.Muscats are found next to the Cap Corse on the North point of the Island.

Appellations Corse with a land or village name:

• Coteaux-du-cap-corse – very rare whites, the best of Corsica
• Calvi
• Porto-vecchio – and its famous Conte Peraldi
• Figari
• Sartène – fruity and warm.

Discovery from my Envoyé Spécial, connoisseur and citizen of Corsica - Laurent in direct from the island:

• Red Pumonte from Pierre Aquaviva in Balagne (near Calvi). It is made from a land of old Vementinu vines protected from the summer heat. This a dense, complex and fresh wine.
• Richard Spurr, new vine grower in Balagne is making the Clos des Anges that will mostly please women. His Irish and British blood didn't mislead him and he is making a powerful and generous red.
• Crush of the Summer: Domaine Vecchio (Florence Giudicelli) white Chardonnay (vin de pays). Yes you must think this makes no sense but even though Chardonnay is not characteristic of Corsica, this wine made in a Californian way with grapes raised under the Corsican heat reveals the best of the grape. Original and fantastic wine!

Word of Mouth - Corsicans in Paris:

• Try the natural red from domaine Arena in Patrimonio. They also have good rosé, white and Muscats. You will find them in Paris in La Villa Corse, where you will also be able to taste some of the best recipes. Lavinia, and the two wine bars “Le Vin vole” in Paris will also be typical wine bars where you will find them.

• Still, my favorite place to drink Corsican wine is the new restaurant “Chez Vous” in the 9th district of Paris, at the foot of Montmatre, where you will find a red and a rosé from the Domaine Santamaria in Patrimonio at 15 Euros a bottle: the best quality to price ratio in town and a wonderful staff with good, simple and traditional cuisine.

Don’t hesitate if you are in need of sunlight and holiday flavors come visit Corsica and experiment the aromatic and multiple savors of original Corsican wines. You can't be disappointed!

À a saluta (Cheers!)

Drink in Paris:

• “Chez Vous” (At Home), rue Choron, 75009 Paris

• “Le Verre volé” (The stolen glass), 67 rue Lancry 75010 Paris

• “La Vila Corse” 141 avenue Malakoff 75016 Paris

• "le Balbuzard" 54 rue René Boulanger - 75010 Tél: 01 42 08 60 20

Map from Wikipedia

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Rosé is Pink, but it is Wine

It sometimes seems like being a rosé lover is a sin and makes you look like an amateur. As amateur as I may be, I think rosé is a wine that deserves to be considered as a contender. Maybe it is because rosé is pink, and pink is associated with women, and women drinking wine cannot be taken seriously. So therefore, rosé can’t be taken seriously - it's our unconscious talking to us! Thankfully, women can drink now, they are also more and more accepted in the wine business and, according to studies have a much better nose than men. Pink is also becoming an increasingly masculine color and it will soon become chic to have a glass of wine matching your tie. Considering this, rosé should soon come back to the forefront. I say "come back" because pink wine has not always been the ugly duckling.

During the 13th century, rosé was the main production in Bordeaux, until it was considered too fragile to travel, so the region started to produce mainly red wine. Rosé must be drunk young and preferably on the spot, which is rather inconvenient and antinomic to a good wine that is supposed to age. This is also another reason, probably more rational, for the rosé unpopularity. (Source: Centre d’Expérimentation du Rosé).

The road to rosé recognition will be long and rosé producers are certainly not among the richest in the world, it is therefore important to cultivate the rosé culture. Europeans, especially the French – stubborn as they are - have been working hard on it recently. Too scared of losing what they have already built, they have made sure that rosé will remain rosé: A wine made of red grapes with a short maceration, then vinified as a white wine. Blending white and red can be done at the grape level in some places and when making sparkling rosé but once it has become wine, the mixing is prohibited except in some countries like Australia and South Africa.

Mixing two wines would only give the same pink color but reaching the same level of fresh fruit flavor is more difficult. It would hence disappoint and lose the consumer used to traditional rosés, something you don’t even want to think about! More than for any other wines, the border between traditional and industrial rosé is hard to delineate , producers and consumers need clear rules and not allowing a new set of rules for the rosé winemaking process will only make it clearer.

Rosé is not a mutt, it is a unique kind of wine, usually very light, delicate, refreshing, reminiscent of fresh fruits to the palate. It is much appreciated by itself before a meal but also pairs well with food. Have you ever tried it with apples, pears, fresh berries, peaches or apricots sorbets for instance?

It is not to say that you must drink rosé all day long - I am a red wine person, not considering changing religion - but there is a time for each wine, one is for rosé. Holiday in Provence – holiday by the beach – holiday! Rosé! Have you ever played the outdoor ball game called pétanque, otherwise known as bocce ball (the best description I have ever seen is here)? So it is 3 o’clock in the afternoon and you are under a stunning sun playing pétanque – Then, Rosé! Michel-Schlumberger in California, realeased this year a wine gamme called Pétanque that is the “embodiment of the Pétanque lifestyle…cultured, sophisticated, relaxed, very portable, a little competitive, and a ton of fun!”, unfortunately they only produce reds and whites, , a pity with such a name!

Rosé wine, not like all other wines, is associated with leisure and progress the lack of history this wine has in France, in comparison to white and reds can allow freedom in the way it is bottled and marketed. And in France at least, rosé wines have the most creative packaging.

Like any wine, rosé can be an awful potion or a very precious elixir. Here are my two treasures of the month.

Mas Amiel – Le Plaisir. 2008 A very gourmand strawberry red color, Wild strawberries and Cherry on the nose following through to the palate. with pepper notes. This rosé is well balanced and deserve its name. 70 % grenache noir, 20 % syrah and 10 % carignan

Chinon – Cuvée Marie-Justine, Christophe Baudry-Dutour.2008 Named after the daughters of Christophe Baudry, this rosé has a soft salmon pink color and a delicate pear and peach palate, it is also floral and very refreshing.

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